![]() ![]() ![]() If this is in the 90s it is going to produce nice-looking skin tones. Here is a tip for you, if you are looking for a LED good light that will replicate skin tones nicely, look and see what the score is for R9 (red). This is why it is imperative that the score for R9 (red) be as high as possible. Saturated red light is the hardest hue for an LED light to create, and yet it is so important when it comes to replicating good skin tones. The extended CRI score is the average of R1-R15. This is a much broader range of colors and includes R9 (red), R13 (closest to caucasian skin tones, and R15 (closest to Asian skin tones). The problem is the CRI number being quoted by the manufacturer doesn’t include any of the colors that are important for replicating accurate skin tones.Įxtended CRI is the measurement of R1-R15. R1-R8 scores are always high on every light. Above you can see the colors that makeup R1-R8. As the saying goes, assumptions are the mother of all …….ĬRI is misleading. If a 5600K LED light has a CRI score of 97.6 and the sun has a CRI score of 99.2, you are probably going to just assume that your light will be fantastic at reproducing a daylight source. These numbers always sound impressive, but in reality, almost every light you can buy these days will have a CRI score in the 90s. You will often see companies quoting CRI and TLCI scores on their websites. CRI and TLCI scores do let us compare one light to another, but they don’t tell you anything about how lights compare to an ideal light source or how various lights play together. Lighting standards are all over the place. While the spectral response is quite smooth, these light can’t replicate the colors that are required to produce nice skin tones. If we look at some cheap LED lights, you can see how much of the spectrum is missing. LED lights are very good at producing blue in the 440-480 part of the spectrum. You can clearly see why LED lights struggle to reproduce red very well. ![]() Look at how much information is missing in the spectrum. Now let’s look at the spectral response of a very good LED light, the Rotolight Titan X2 at 3200K and 5600K. They can’t reproduce certain colors in the spectrum and they tend to have color spikes in the spectrum that they can produce.Ībove are the spectral responses for a tungsten bulb and the greatest light in the world, the sun. The big caveat sandwich is LED lights are not full-spectrum lights. This is something you can’t do with traditional tungsten or daylight bulb solutions. On one hand, they are great, because they don’t draw much power, they can be single color, bi-color, color adjustable, or full RGB/RGBWW/RGBWAW. What has changed is the way your camera now sees light Y. It isn’t that light Y is necessarily bad or has a color cast. Once you do that, you are going to effectively change the color from light Y. Once you balance for light X, you are balancing your camera for that particular lights spectral response. You do a white balance for light X and then you wonder why light Y looks green or has a magenta cast. For your backlight, you are using a different fixture from manufacturer Y. Here is an example: You have a key light from manufacturer X and you are using it as your main key or source light. With CMOS sensor cameras you are literally playing Russian roulette when mixing LED lights. Unless you have a Sekonic Spectromaster C-800 that can measure SSI you shouldn’t be mixing and matching lights from different manufactures. One of the main reasons for color casts is that a lot of people are using lights from different manufacturers that don’t play well together. So why do we still see discrepancies between LED lights and how can we check to see if they work well together? Don’t mix & match lights unless you know what you are doing While LED lights in the early days were all over the place when it came to quality and color reproduction they have gotten a lot better in recent years. I often hear people complaining that this light is green, or this light produces a color cast. ![]()
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